Tuesday, October 20, 2015

Carbon Fingerless Mitts

Long Island has been unusually warm this Fall. We seem to be breezing straight past my all time favorite season! I wonder, how can we enjoy all the wonderful colors and crisp air, sweaters without jackets, and perfect light weight knitted goods to show off before we freeze? I mean lets face it, there's no time for complicated cables and weeks of  tireless knitting...I need something gorgeous, and I need it NOW! Well, here's what I came up with: knit up something textured and small, something that looks quite complicated, but is actually incredibly easy! Who'd of thought...

I'm happy to introduce my Carbon Fingerless Mitts pattern!
Designed by me, Shanna Felice at Lambstrings Yarn.
These are 100% FREE for your enjoyment, so I hope you take advantage!




These beautiful  fingerless  mitts are worked in the round with no need for seaming.  Simple slipped stitches are worked and picked up on alternating rows to produce an eye catching texture as well as a thermal fabric to keep your hands nice and toasty. These mitts are perfect for any style,  casual enough to wear with anything, and fancy enough to  compel your friends to ask "How did you do that?"

Note:
Theses mitts  are designed to be fitted snugly around the wrist, but make sure you do not knit too tight! The slipped stitches need to be loose and relaxed to ensure some elasticity.

Make 2 mitts exactly the same! 

Shown in Lambstrings Ewetopia Sock in colorway "Red Maple"
You can find this yarn here:

Materials:
Lambstrings Ewetopia Sock (200-225) yds
US#2  36"+ circular needles for magic loop or DPN's
Stitch markers
Waste yarn

Sizes: XS/S (M/L); 5"-6" (6"-7.5") wrist.
                                                                                             
Gauge:
34 sts/44 rows=4" in stockinette.

                                                                                                                           




Abbr:
K: knit
P: purl
pm: place marker
EOR: end of round
*: repeat
SL5 (3): slip next 5 (3) sts to right needle, as if to purl.
WYIF: bring yarn to front of work
ULS: with right needle, lift the 2 running strands below from front to back, insert needle into next st knitwise, knit st and 2 strands together, transfer to right needle as one. (see Fig.1, 2, and 3)
M1R: with left needle, pick up the bar between your sts from back to front, knit through front of st, transfer to right needle. (right slanting increase).
M1L: with left needle, pick up the bar between your sts from front to back, knit through back of st, transfer to right needle. left slanting increase).

Begin at wrist:
On US#2 needles, cast on 52 (64) sts, pm, and join for knitting in the round.
Rib: (K2, P2) to EOR.
Repeat Rib row 9 times total.
Rnd 10: [(K2, P2) x4 (5), M1R] x3, K to EOR.
55 (67) sts.

Work Carbon stitch pattern A:
Rows 1, 3, and 5: K all sts, slipping marker.
Rows 2 and 4: K1, *(SL5 WYIF, K1), repeat from * x 9 (11).
Row 6: K3, *(ULS, K5), repeat from * x8 (10), ULS, K3.
Rows 7 and 9: K to last 3 sts, SL3 WYIF.
Rows 8 and 10: SL3 WYIF, *(K1, SL5 WYIF), repeat from * x8 (10), K4.
Row 11: K to last st, ULS.
Row 12: K6, *(ULS, K5), repeat from * x8 (10), K1.
Repeat rows 1-12 of pattern A: 3 times more, then rows 1-6 once more.

Gusset:
Next row: K2, pm, K to last 2 sts, pm, K2.

Work Carbon stitch pattern B: (Increase 2 sts every 3rd round)
Row 1: K to m, M1R, sm, K2, *(SL5 WYIF, K1) x8 (10), K1, sm, M1L, K to EOR.
Rows 2, 6 and 8: K all sts, slipping m's.
Row 3: K to m, sm, K2, *(SL5 WYIF, K1) x8 (10), K1, sm, K to EOR.
Rows 4 and 10: K to m, sm, M1R, sm, K to m, sm, M1L, Kto EOR.
Row 5: K to m, sm, K4, ULS, *(K5, ULS) x7 (9), K4, sm, K to EOR.
Row 7: K to m, M1R, sm, K5, *(SL5 WYIF, K1) x8 (10), K4, sm, M1L, K to EOR.
Row 9: K to m, sm, K5, *(SL5 WYIF, K1), x8 (10), K4, sm, K to EOR.
Row 11: K to m, sm, K7, ULS, *(K5, ULS) x7 (9), K2, sm, K to EOR.
Row 12: K all sts, slipping m's.
Repeat rows 1-12 of pattern B: 1 (2) times more, then rows 1-6 (1-4) once more.

Divide for thumb:
Row 1: Work across row 7 (5) of pattern B to 2nd m, remove m, M1L, place next 12 (14) sts on waste yarn.
Row 2: Place first 12 (14) sts on waste yarn , M1R, K1, remove m, K to EOR, M1L.
55 (67) sts palm, 24 (28) sts thumb.

Continue for fingers:
Beginning on row #4 (#2) of Carbon pattern A, work through to row 12, then rows 1-12 once more.
Next row: K1, M1R, K to EOR.
Rib: (K2, P2) to EOR.
Repeat Rib row 5 times total.
Bind off in Rib pattern.

Thumb:
Pick up 24 (28) sts from waste yarn, pm, join for knitting in the round.
K evenly for 6 (8) rows, slipping m.
Rib: (K2, P2) to EOR.
Repeat Rib row 5 times total.
Bind off in Rib pattern.
Enoy!!!

ULS fig 1.                                                                          ULS fig 2.                                                                                   ULS fig 3.





Last updated 8/30/16.















7 comments:

  1. I am having a little trouble. On the start of section A it says "Rows 1, 3, and 5: K all sts, slipping markers." But I don't see clear instructions as to where to place the markers. I am guessing they go before each * on row 2?

    ReplyDelete
  2. I agree with Auriya. And I love the look of this pattern, but I'm having trouble with Row 10, after the 9 rows of ribbing. How do you get 55 stitches from [(K2, P2) x3, M1R] x3. That's only 39.

    So I'm following the pattern anyway, and I do the (K2, P2) x3, M1R] x3 Then I have 16 stitches left. Granted, 39 + 16 is 55. But what am I supposed to do with those last 16 stitches?

    And then, where am I supposed to place the markers?

    Thank you for making this a free pattern. I do love it, and I really want to finish. Please help. Thank you!

    ReplyDelete
  3. Hello ladies!
    Yes, I see my mistake.
    Row 10 should be : [(K2, P2) x4 (5), M1R] x3, K to EOR. And your marker will be there :)
    That's 1 st increase every 16 (20) sts 3 times, then work to end.
    So sorry for the confusion and I will edit the main pattern as soon as I can (silly mobile site won'the let me edit)
    Thank you so much ladies!!
    Shanna Felice
    Lambstrings Yarn

    ReplyDelete
  4. On row 4 & 10 after the gusset it says to k to m, sm, m1r, sm, k to m, sm, m1l, k to work. I dropped the original marker to note where I joined in the round because it was getting fiddley. Is that the second sm you mean on the first side of the mitt? Or is it a typo?

    ReplyDelete
  5. (B) Rows 4 and 10: K to m, sm, M1R, sm, K to m, sm, M1L, Kto EOR

    In the first part - sm, M1R, sm - I am not seeing any PMs in the preceding rows, so there should only be one marker there. Since row 5 says K4, ULS, I am going to guess row 4 should read: K to m, M1R, sm

    ReplyDelete
  6. Also B, Row 11:

    *(K5, ULS) x7 (9), K2, sm, K to EOR.

    Should be: *(K5, ULS) x7 (9), K7, sm, K to EOR. Once you pick up the 9 slips (or 7) that exist, there are 7 sts left. Makes sense because you're knitting the last 4 before the marker when you're doing the slips.

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  7. The thumb count for the larger size (I didn't look at the smaller one) seems off to me. You start with 2 Sts before the marker at the beg of round. Pattern b increases 4 times per repeat. You call for 3 repeats, plus row 1-4 which contains 2 increases. So that' 2+(3*4)+2 = 16. We are placing 14 Sts on scrap after the marker at the end of the rd, which leaves 2 Sts before the beg of rd. At the beginning, we place 14 Sts on the scrap, M1R but then there's an extra k before the marker. So we're saying the end of rd after marker should have 14 and the beg of rd before marker should have 15... However if the pattern is followed there are 16 Sts on either side of the beg of rd.

    ReplyDelete